Filling In Brows For Beginners

This post was specially requested by my sister who had over plucked her eyebrows when she was younger. Now she has had to learn how to fill out her brows since the hair has grown back very sparse and uneven.

Whether you like your brows heavily filled out or natural looking, shaping them properly is essential. Eyebrows frame the face and give us our facial expressions. Dark and thin brows make us look older while thicker more natural brows give a youthful appearance. However you prefer them, they have to be well groomed and shaped correctly.

I finished makeup school still struggling with this. It was while watching my mentor work during my apprenticeship that I learned a trick that helped me practice.

If you look up how to shape your eyebrows on the internet, you will see pictures that give you a basic guide on where to start, where to place the arch, and where to end the brow.

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There are two options where to start the brow. I prefer to use the black line as a guide (as opposed to the red one). It looks more natural and your brows don’t look too wide apart giving you a surprised look. Also, having a smaller gap between both brows, gives the illusion of a thinner looking nose.

I noticed that my mentor would sometimes use the handle of his brush to measure as he drew in the brow of a model when she had oddly shaped brows and he had to totally reshape them. This is where I got the idea of connecting the dots!

Measure using the guide and mark with your brow pencil.
Measure (use the guide above) and mark each point with dots using your brow pencil.
This is what it looks like when you are done.  Do the same with the other brow.  Make sure that the dots are even on both sides of the face.
This is what it looks like when you are done. Do the same with the other brow. Make sure that the dots are even on both sides of the face.

The idea is to make the face look as symmetrical as possible. I like to work on both brows at the same time, making progress by section and working towards the tail slowly. This way I can compare the evenness & similarity of both brows as I go. It also eliminates having to keep erasing or adding product. You don’t want to end up with eyebrows that resemble two thick caterpillars because you’ve had to keep on adding product on one brow, and then the other in an attempt to even them out.

Now you can start connecting the dots and filling out the brows. I use two shades when I do this: the lighter one where the brow starts and the darker, for the tail.
I use two shades when I fill in my eyebrows: the lighter one where the brow starts and the darker, for the tail.
These are your best friends when working on your brows.  The spooly brush and a small stiff angled brush.  I've had my angled brush since 2007.  The lacquer on the handle is coming off but it's one of my favorites in my kit.  You will use these to blend the product into the brow so it doesn't look too harsh.
These are your best friends when working on your brows. The spooly brush and a small stiff angled brush. I’ve had my MAC angled brush since 2007. The lacquer on the handle is coming off but it’s still one of my favorites. You will use these to blend the product into the brow so it doesn’t look too harsh.
Connect the dots on the first brow and then the next.
Connect the dots on the first brow and then do the same on the other.
After connecting the dots, fill in the brow and blend! Remember to work by section on both brows at the same time so you can compare and see that they are symmetrical.
After connecting the dots, fill in the brow and blend! Remember to work by section on both brows at the same time so you can compare and see that they are symmetrical.
When you are happy with the first half of your brows, fill in the tail with the darker pencil.
When you are happy with the first half of your brows, fill in the tail with the darker pencil.
Blend both shades with your spooly brush so it looks more natural.
Blend both shades with your spooly brush so it looks more natural.  Make sure that you cannot tell where the lighter shade ends and the darker one begins.

The more you practice, the more you’ll be able to draw in your brows by feel. When in doubt though, pull out that brush handle and measure. I still do this from time to time.